FAQ’s

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Why is my tap still dripping after I replaced the washer?

 

A: A worn tap washer is sometimes only part of the problem. If the seat of the tap (the part that the washer sits down onto) is worn and pitted or cracked, then the washer is never going to make a water tight seal. The only way to fix this is to re-seat the tap which requires a re-seating tool.

Sometimes, if the crack is right through to the bottom of the seat, or the tap is so old that it’s been re-seated too many times before, then the only option is a replacement tap.
Q: Why isn’t my shower working properly?

 

A: There’s a number of things that can cause a shower to stop performing. Roadworks in the area may have let grit get into the cold water pipes which could block up your shower filters or scratch the ceramic disk, causing the water pressure to slow, or the shower to leak.

Your hot water cylinder could be the problem … see our section on different pressures for different showers to see how hot water cylinders and showers need to be matched correctly.

 

Q: My kitchen tap runs sooooo slowly!

 

A: Single lever sink faucets are different from the old style standard kitchen taps in that the flexible pipes under your sink are quite narrow and restrict the flow of water a lot more. Usually, you’ll have really good cold water flow as the cold water is mains pressure and forces itself through the pipes at a great rate, but the hot water (if it’s a low pressure hot water cylinder) will come through a lot slower, and may be painfully slow.

The first thing to do is to check that the spout is not blocked. You can do this by simply unscrewing the end piece of the tap spout, which holds a gauze filter which can quite often be blocked and stopping water flow. Clean out the grit, and you’ll have much better flow of water. There may also be filter on the inlet side of the tap under the bench, which could be blocked up. To repair this, the water needs to be shut off and the filters removed and cleaned.

If neither of these things fix the fault then it could just be that your hot water system is not correct for the type of tap. In this case see our section on different options for hot water, give us a call and we can come and discuss your options.

 

Q: I want a new toilet. Will anything fit or is it a major job?

 

A: There’s 3 things you need to look at when considering a new toilet. Is the incoming water point going to match up with what you already have? Is the drain going to match up with your existing plumbing? Does your new toilet require a vent?

If you’re upgrading from an old style toilet to a new close coupled toilet suite, chances are the water supply is in the wrong place and your wall will have to be cut open and pipework will have to be moved around. There’s also a strong likelihood that the new toilet’s outlet pipe will have a different set-out from the wall, which means that it won’t match up with the existing drain. It may be that you have to find a toilet which suits what you already have, if you are not willing to spend the extra money to shift drainage pipes around.

If your old toilet has an air-vent coming out of the side of it and up through the roof, we may be able to get rid of this pipe altogether when installing your new toilet, depending on how close the toilet is to your main drain vent outside. Many of the new close-coupled toilet suites don’t have an air-vent component built in to them so need to be reasonably close to a drain vent so the toilet will flush properly. Some close-coupled suites, like the Caroma Opal 2000 have an inbuilt vent option hidden behind the bowl, which can be re-plumbed back into your existing vent pipe work.

If you’re unsure about what will fit, I definitely recommend getting a plumber to have a look at the existing toilet before you go and buy a new one. This will save the hassle of having to return goods to the store because they won’t fit.